For the record, when I think of Italian cheese, the first ones that pop into my head are mozzarella and its sister, burrata. I find it impossible to divorce Italy from her creamy, versatile cow cheeses. Then again, parmesan is pretty famous. And so is pecorino. And then there’s Grana Padano…

You get the point.

Of the hard cheeses, it’s safe to say that the most ubiquitous are parmesan, pecorino, and Grana Padano. (Asiago gets an honorable mention.) Since the three famous cheeses are often used sparingly, as garnishes or toppings, or suggested interchangeably in recipes, it can be hard to tell the differences between them. Even I, as a self-proclaimed cheese aficionado, wanted to test myself and really get acquainted with each cheese’s identity. I must confess, the test was harder than I expected. Here’s the quick rundown of what makes each cheese unique.

Parmesan (Parmigiano Reggiano)

The queen of the hard cheeses, parmesan is useful in almost any situation. It’s heavily regulated in Italy, meaning that not all cheese labeled “parmesan” is true Parmigiano Reggiano. While the grocery store version might have some of the flavors of Parmigiano, it pales in comparison to the real stuff. How do you know if you’re being duped? Real Parmigiano has a distinctive rind with the words “Parmigiano Reggiano” engraved in dotted letters. Don’t worry, it’s hard to miss.

Key characteristics of Parmigiano Reggiano:

• Saltiness

• Crumbliness

• Firmness/flakiness (you need a knife to cut it)

Tuscan Pecorino (Pecorino Toscano)

Pecorino happens to be my favorite of The Big Three. Perhaps this is because, during our trip to Tuscany last fall, we wandered the streets of Pienza, the capital of Pecorino Toscano. The town literally smells like cheese, and its many shops proudly display various flavors of pecorino, and if you buy some, they’ll let you taste a few. Once you’ve sampled pecorino in Pienza, you’ll never go back.

It’s important to note that Rome is home to another famous version of pecorino, Pecorino Romano. This is the cheese used in today’s cacio e pepe, carbonara, and other iconic Roman dishes. One of these days, I’ll do a blind tasting of the two pecorinos and see how they compare.

Key characteristics of Pecorino Toscano:

• Tanginess

• Earthiness

• Creaminess and bounciness (when fresh, not aged)

• Sharp, earthy flavor when aged

Grana Padano

In the spirit of transparency, I admit that I mixed this up with pecorino during my blind tasting. My excuse is that I’m used to aged pecorino, which is much sharper and tougher than fresh, the one I tasted. I forgot how similar Grana is to parmesan.

If you’re cooking a recipe that calls for Grana Padano but only have parmesan on hand, feel free to substitute. The two are super similar, though a Parmigiano Reggiano expert would beg to differ. In taste, the main difference between Grana and parmesan is its creaminess; it’s basically a more accessible version of Parmigiano, like parm’s “little sister.” Read more about the differences in production and regulation here.

Key characteristics of Grana Padano:

• Saltiness

• Firmness

• Mild parmesan flavor